Key Takeaways:
Extend first wash to 6 months for optimal fade patterns
Use cold water and minimal detergent to protect the fabric
Choose between soaking or hand washing based on dirt level
Air dry only – heat can damage the cotton fibers
Got top-shelf denim that needs cleaning? Let’s tackle how to wash selvedge jeans the right way. As someone who’s ruined (and saved) plenty of craft denim, I’ll share what works and what doesn’t.
Understanding Selvedge Denim
Selvedge jeans aren’t your average pants. They’re special because:
- They’re made on old-style shuttle looms
- The edges won’t fray or unravel
- The denim creates unique fade patterns
Types of selvedge denim:
- Lightweight (under 12 oz)
- Midweight (12-16 oz)
- Heavyweight (over 16 oz)
Each type needs slightly different care. But they all share one thing – they get better with age.
How to Wash Selvedge Jeans: Step-by-Step
Here’s my detailed method for keeping your jeans clean without losing their charm:
1. Prep Work
- Turn jeans inside out
- Empty all pockets
- Unroll any cuffs
2. Choose Your Method
Pick based on how dirty your jeans are:
Light cleaning (soaking):
- Fill bathtub with cold water
- Add 1 tablespoon of gentle cleaner
- Submerge jeans fully
- Soak for 45 minutes
- Rinse with clean water
Deep cleaning (hand washing):
- Fill tub with cold water
- Add gentle cleaner
- Submerge jeans
- Gently agitate by hand
- Let soak 1 hour
- Rinse thoroughly
3. Drying Process
A crucial step many get wrong:
- Do:
- Squeeze out excess water
- Hang by waistband with strong clips
- Keep away from direct sun
- Let air dry completely (24-48 hours)
- Don’t:
- Wring or twist the fabric
- Use a dryer
- Hang in bright sunlight
Japanese Selvedge Jeans: Special Care Tips
Japanese selvedge needs extra attention:
- Check if sanforized or unsanforized
- Unsanforized will shrink more
- May need cold soaking before wear
- Natural indigo considerations
- Bleeds more than synthetic dye
- Wash alone to prevent transfer
- Heavyweight denim care
- Takes longer to dry
- More prone to creasing
| Denim Weight | Dry Time | Shrinkage Risk |
|---|---|---|
| Lightweight | 24 hours | Low |
| Midweight | 36 hours | Medium |
| Heavyweight | 48 hours | High |
Selvedge Denim: Washing Frequency
Let’s bust some denim myths:
- First wash: Wait 6 months for best fades
- Regular washing: Every 3-4 months is fine
- Signs it’s time to wash:
- Visible dirt
- Odor
- Knees or other areas getting shiny
Stain Removal on Selvedge Denim
Accidents happen. Here’s how to deal:
- Fresh stains:
- Dab with cold water
- Use a gentle cleaner
- Pat dry with clean cloth
- Set stains:
- Spot clean with soft brush
- Use minimal water
- Be patient – aggressive scrubbing damages fabric
Common Questions About Washing Selvedge
Q: Will washing ruin my fades?
A: No. Good fades come from wear, not dirt. Clean jeans actually fade better.
Q: Can I use the washing machine?
A: You can, but I don’t recommend it. Hand washing gives you control and protects the fabric.
Q: How do I prevent indigo transfer?
A: You can’t completely stop it, but washing inside out helps. Some transfer is part of the raw denim experience.
Advanced Denim Care
For the true denim heads:
- Ocean washing
- Some swear by it
- Salt can set dyes
- Be ready for sand in pockets
- Vinegar soak
- Add 1 cup to rinse water
- Helps set dye
- Reduces odor
- Repair and maintain
- Fix small holes early
- Use quality denim repair shops
- Consider learning basic repairs
Why Proper Care Matters
Good selvedge jeans are an investment. With proper care:
- They’ll last years longer
- Develop better fades
- Keep their shape and fit
Think of them as a canvas that tells your story. Every wash (or lack of) affects how that story unfolds.
Final Thoughts
Washing selvedge jeans might seem like a daunting task, but it doesn’t have to be. The key is being gentle and patient. Your jeans will reward you with years of wear and unique fades that reflect your life.
Remember – these aren’t just trousers. They’re a piece of craft denim that gets better with every wear. Treat them right, and they’ll become your favorite pair of jeans.
Pro tip: Keep a log of your washes and any special care. It helps track what works best for your specific pair of selvedge jeans.
Struggling with smelly jeans that just won’t freshen up, and curious about the game-changing tips I wish I’d discovered sooner?
